Anybody know these lap steels?

[Tony Russell Davis]

Don't worry yet if your bar doesn't have a dimple at the end - you may not be learning reverse slants just yet. Just make sure you use a bullet nosed bar (I don't like a shubb even for reso). And that thing about number of strings; 7 or 8 are different from a 6 plank, not necessarily a progression. The extra one or two should give you more scope rather than additional problems

[malaz]

Hi Tony,
I just ordered a Dunlop 918 yesterday, and it's been dispatched today, so I should get it tomorrow or Thursday.
My strings have also been dispatched from GB , so they should be arriving sometime next week.
Looking forward to practicing again!
Michael Z

[Charlie Brown]

Hi Michael

The Dimavery looks like a copy of the Grestch model, probably made in the same factory, haven't tried it.

I own a Recording King, almost identical to the Ashbury, except for the headstock (mine's not slotted). It cost 98 euros (Thomann), nice build, cheapo parts and the tone is quite on the dark side thanks to the mahogany construction and sorta hot pickup. You can do interesting things on it but I'd stray away if you want to go for a more trebly vintage style tone. You could always have a single pickup installed, should'nt be expensive (just have someone route the body and the rest is a piece of cake).

Also tried one that's very similar to the second link, made by SX. Very cheap HW and electronics, smaller size but light and sorta trebly, I don't particularly like humbuckers in lap steels. I definitely prefer the recording king or ashbury over that one.

Good thing about lap steels is that you can get them cheap on ebay and there's usually a few to choose from. You can find nice German lapsteels from the 60s/70s and some Japanese models around the 100/200 mark, you only have to make sure that they're in good condition but Ive purchased a few in the last few years for 100/150 euros and they sound great!

Oh yes, get a nice set of C6 strings on there! 8 strings better than 6

[angello]

I have a shubb sp2, and a small hand it is too big, I would now recommend what I ignored, a stainless steel bullet, easier to hold, easier to mute behind and easier for vibrato.

Well I have the RR1 and RR2 models and like them a lot as you can lay a finger down the groove on top for wobble control,

[Basil Henriques]

The 'bullet' bar is the only one you can SUCCESSFULLY perform specifically "Split-Slants" with. The Shubb style of bars are for resophonic and acoustic work that primarily would require 'hammer-ons' and 'pull-offs'.. I know of no professional who would recommend that style of bar for electric lap, console or pedal guitar.
It's the same scenario as the "I can't get by with finger picks" brigade, looking for the easiest way rather than the correct and established methodology..
In my opinion playing a steel guitar (Not reso or acoustic) with a shubb style bar is just plain lazy..and not very effective.

[Basil Henriques]

This thread certainly seems to have died..

[Basil Henriques]

Yep Looks like it's dead..

[sabatica]

I use a http://www.shubb.com/randolph/ RR2 model. Its heavy for a clean tone and large enough for slants. It has a short edge for accuracy and cutouts for easier grip. Its a bit trickier to master for Lap Steel Guitar playing but definitely worth it.

[Basil Henriques]

sabatica, what tuning(s) do you play ?

[Basil Henriques]

Sabatica, you're closing the door to over 80% of the available slants if you use the RR Bar: split slants, for minors, sevenths, diminished and augmented partials are all available with a bullet nosed bar. Or maybe you have no need or use for those chords (Triads) ?
BTW What's your name, it's customary if not mandatory to also state your REAL name in your profile !