by Basil Henriques » Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:29 pm
Telboy, the tuning situation is simple.. Either C6th A6th or E13th depending on whether you already see the fretboard like a guitarists or a Reso player..
If you are accomplished on the regular guitar, then the E13th would equate most readily to the positions you already know.. i.e. 3rd fret = Key of G and C. BUT if you're Reso orientated then the A based tuning would make more sense to you as the third fret would equate to the position for the Key of only C. If you wish to become proficient then make your brain work and learn to cope with tunings that encompass all the possible inversions. i.e. E13th (Root on top) A6th (Fifth on top) and C6th (Third on top)
A little help is included here, and remember you DON'T slant by bending your wrist or lifting your elbow, it's purely bar manipulation WITHIN the hand..
Here is my friend Lorene Ruymar who teaches state-side, and her course has been adopted by the Schools in Hawaii.
String Gauges and Pickup Placement.
This is purely MY opinion on gauges and tonality, from what I've found, I believe that if the gauge is too light, the sustain, tonality and relative string balance all suffer detrimentally.
These are my gauges for a 22.5" scale length.
1= E .016 or .017
2= C#.018 or .019
3= B .020
4= G#.022 0r .024 PLAIN
5= E .034 WOUND
6= D .040
7= B .046
8= E .056
They will suit C6/C13, A6/B11, E6/E13 without re stringing.
C6th neck
1= E
2= C
3= A
4= G
5= E
6= C or C#
7= A
8= G
A6th neck
1= E
2= C#
3= A
4= F#
5= E
6= C#
7= A
8= G
E13th
1= E
2= C#
3= B
4= G#
5= E
6= D
7= B
8= E
B11th
1= E
2= C#
3= A
4= F#
5= D#
6= B
7= A
8= B
Heavier gauge strings give a more solid tone and sustain longer with much less variation in pitch when picked hard or gentle (loud and soft.)
The radius of the bridge and nut also directly affect the tone, albeit with the nut just on 'open strings', but the break angle at the bridge is CRUCIAL, the larger the radius the more prone to "Whining" and 'Wolfe" tones.
All of the guitars that we consider having "Classic" tonality have VERY small radius bridges and also without exception have pickups mounted as near to the bridge as possible. The current trend to mount two pickups to obtain greater tone variation is a lame duck in my opinion, whilst having a warmer sound in comparison to the bridge pickup, the "neck pickup" has no advantage as the perceived sustain is much less, AND the warmer sound can be obtained with picking position and tone control/amplifier settings with the added advantage of reduced background noise.
There IS a "Sweet Spot" for the pickup height, too close and the increased magnetic field affects sustain, too far and the possibility of microphonics being heard are increased.
The 'Rule of Thumb' is no closer than the thickness of a new penny and no further than a £1 coin.
As for tonality, the pickup nearest the bridge will always have the longest "Perceived" sustain.
If you can't double your volume by picking harder then you are picking too hard initially, the picking strength SHOULD be able to vary your volume by a VERY noticeable amount, if not, look at it again, back to the woodshed..Dynamics SHOULD be an integral part of your technique, as should be interpretation.
Last edited by
Basil Henriques on Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Steelies do it without fretting
