by Tony Russell Davis » Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:52 am
Bob - first impression is that there is plenty there to work with and get it going. Without seeing it for real I must assume that the lack of pins in 3 and 10 is due to breakages. If you don't snug the string-ball close up to the finger it can bend or even break the pin off. That's my guess, so you'll need to look carefully to see if there are holes there or bits of broken pin. Either way new pins need to go in. You might get at them by loosening the bolts that hold the changer assembly onto the tail casting to see if enough can be drawn up (keeping it together) to see properly. At some point I reckon you will have to un-hook the pull rods from the changer. It would be helpful to you to note which ones are paired up before un-hooking, and which cross rod they go to, but by the time you get to building it up again you should have enough knowledge to figure it out anyway - so don't worry too much; this is a complete rebuild after all! Pull rods look like ZB parts ( similar to bike spokes), with a turnbuckle for length adjustment. They should go (usually in pairs) back to a yoke on a single bell crank. As already said, I cannot see how it was thought that the system on there would work with a bell crank for each pull rod and bottom out the pulls together. You have examples of the yokes in pics. 3 and 4 of your last post.
Fender SM T-8: Shakey 10-plank: Ricky 6: Harmony H7 R Smeck,: plus "home-mades"
Fender D-10: Sierra D-11:
Resos- Goldtone 8 string & Regal 7
FenderTwin: Peavey Delta Blues: Marshall AS50R: DigiTech>GK MB200->Telonics 15"