Clean/Service

[SHAKEY]

How many of you steel players, particularly working steel players actually clean your instrument? I don't mean just polishing the end plates and the woodwork, I'm talking about what goes on underneath. I'm talking about the changer mechanism the cross shafts the pedals etc., or have the work done by someone who knows what they are doing if you don't yourself.

A few months ago I bought a Sho-Bud that appeared to have lived on a diet of WD40 and nicotine, how the hell it ever played I don't know. the changer mechanism was seized pretty much solid, the cross shafts were as dry as a bone as were the pedals, they just grated.

My latest acquisition is basically a lovely instrument which I am adding 3 knee levers and possibly another pedal. Again having stripped it down to the bones the working parts of the changer were working but the non working parts being the 1st, 2nd, 7th and 9th fingers were solid with what looked like a mixture of grease and definitely nicotine (you could smell it). The cross shafts which needed no lubrication as they were self lubricating bushes were absolutely drenched in, again a mixture of oil and nicotine and once again the pedals were as dry as a bone.

I sometimes wonder how some players get through a gig if their guitars are anything like this. Someone told me once that Jeff Newman said you should change your guitar every 6 months, maybe that was to avoid having to clean it.
It is actually amazing the difference in the feel of the guitar after cleaning it properly if you haven't cleaned it for a really long time.
Just a thought. Dave.

[Will C]

I've often wondered what to use for lubricant - if any. Obviously those Acetal/Delrin bushes don't need it but I'm thinking of metal-to-metal contact Dave. I have some "graphite" grease, which contains graphite and molybdenum disulphide - aka Molyslip. Any good? It works in guns!

Will

[Jason Lynch]

Will. This discussion came up on the US forum. I use 3 in 1 oil, with a red straw I nicked from a wd40 can to direct it to the right places. Someone recomended Fishing reel oil? Dont know if thats any good. genreally, avoid silicon based greases.
I'm planning to strip down the changer next time she needs a string change- probable september, as I have a week off then! I'll make a rodding chart first, and take LOADS of pics.

[bob adams]

GT 85 ... can be got in Maplins, Halfords etc, fast evaporating solvent leaving light film of PTFE.
if you want a similar cleaner use brake cleaner, again fast evaporation, same product more or less as a dry cleaning fluid used on fabric, (Yes, I used to sell for a chemical company, as well as many days on the road there were numbers in the lab!)

Any oil, light or otherwise will cause anything in the air to stick and white grease is even worse!

Use oil based products if you want this!!

[elparkirio]

GT 85 is the one, or TF2 teflon lubricant...I've also bought some compressed air cans to blow out any dirt that can make the changer stick, which happened last week in the middle of a recording session....dem guitars NEED some tlc, keep em clean

[Will C]

Yes, that makes sense. I used to use Teflon-loaded fluid on Army rifles - the early SA80 pattern used for the Cadets were very prone to jamming, and the Teflon particles really helped, the liquid evaporated. Any oil just attracted sand, which was a very efficient grinding paste!

[SHAKEY]

I was actually recomended TRI-FLO which is a teflon based lubricant which is used mainly for bikes. but I found a product called Napier, which is a gun cleaner and lubricant so I am now going to see how that works.

[zbplayer]

I use "Dry Lubricant with Teflon" From Halfords bike section. About £3.50 to £4. Very runny, but dries instantly to leave silky Teflon lubricant. Perfect.

[Nick Bidmade]

I very recently took advantage of the warm weather and took my Sho_Bud into the garden for some much-needed tlc. I gave it a thorough clean and oiling with light sewing machine oil. It brought a lot of gunk from the changer. The result is a much smoother pedal action, smoother changes and reduction in pedal noise. I also had a spring that creaked on RKL which is now smooth and noise-free. Had I left it another week I could have tried one of the alternatives suggested here. Am interested in the 'dry' lubricants as it's clear that, over time, the oil-based lubes attract dust and gunk. Will give the oil time to work but as it dries out I'll definitely give the alternatives a try as they will clean the old oil out as well.
Matt's suggestion of a canister of compressed air is also a good 'un.