The British Steelies Society

HI Everyone
I've pulled the trigger on a project PSG as I don't have the money to buy a new one, and I was hoping for some pointers. Now this guitar is of a vintage (Serial number 308S 3+3 layout) and it *ahem* smells it. It has been also “setup” by someone who is either insane or blind. There is large selection of pull rod designs used here and there is 30+ years of crap stuck to all the swinging arms. I’m lucky enough to be an engineer at a company which makes a lot of sheet metal parts so I intend in redesigning and changing the majority off the undercarriage and wanted to know if I can/should do
All the foot pedals cross bars have been “modified” so I’m remaking them in stainless steel /Aluminium which one should I go for?
The foot pedal cross bars are curved is it ok to change them so that have a joggle in them?
All the pull rods are ceased and are in bad shape, should I use Stainless steel or aluminium to replace them?
What lubrication should I use on the changer?
Any other advice?
Thanks a million for having a look and if anyone knows how old this old girl is please give me a shout
Dave

Not an expert on building them, but most manufacturers use stainless for crossrods and pull rods , probably for pedals as well, perhaps Bob Adams and Dave Wheelhouse or Shakey might chip in with advice.

The beauty of the ZB is that all the raise and lower tuning is done at the changer end, it doesn't have to rely on a super-accurate pedal mechanism, in fact plenty of slop in the pull-rods etc is desirable, there's no chance of something binding.

Anything can be used in the pull train, I've used bits of Meccano and old coins, it simply doesn't matter, the important bit is the tuning screws bottoming out on the endplate, which imo gives the ZB its legendary tone.

Hi Dave,

I use aluminium for my pedals etc http://steelguitarbuilder.com/forum/vie ... f=4&t=1174

Best Regards Ron Mc

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/userpix1504/2419_vMEaUD4_1.jpg

This should be a link (if I got it right) to Richard's old ZB student. I posted it because that's what a ZB should look like underneath and not neat like the guitar Ron made. ZBs are "different" to most all-pull guitars and don't have to be tidy with parallel rods etc. Admittedly Richard added some extra bits and bobs, but the basics of the guitar are clear.

Since Malc threw my name in here ....... this is my twopence worth!

The wonderful ZB

Undoubtedly another tone machine of the seventies whose undercarriages have perplexed many and countless have set about modification.

I guess it depends on what you want from the guitar,do you want soft and lengthy pedal and lever action or the definition you would demand on a modern players guitar.

For me the choice is the tone with more precise action and pedal /lever stops.

My preference is direct pull rods with adjustment at the yoke (or cross-shaft) with the single exception of the half pull on the' F' Lever, Why? The adjusting turnbuckles (the left/right threaded hexbar) are often bunched near the changer and foul against each other, removing them creates much more precise and free pull action.

My thoughts in pics below:

1: Those Clapham Junction turnbuckles
2: Revised style crossbar yoke
3: The half stop pull, the one to retain (purely for the convenience of using the brazed jointed rod)
4: A ZB student undercarriage with very clean playing action.

NB: When I received this guitar some well engineered work had already been done by one of our renowned techs however there remained fouling problems which the rod changes and a little additional engineering sorted out!

Regardless of this contribution I can say hand on heart that I consider Richard as a seriously sweet ZB player with an outstanding sound I could listen to for hours.

His setup is ..... 'how he likes it'....... The above setup is .... 'how I like it'

I guess life would be dull if we all thought the same!

This is how the guitar sounded when setup (click play on you-tube for additional info)

There's no doubt that the turnbuckle adjusters are a blasted nuisance, Bob's revised yokes and rod adjustment at the yoke has got to be a better way of doing it.

The people who get it wrong are the ones who abandon the yokes, and instead put the two rods on two bellcranks, which causes all sorts of problems with getting the tuning screws to bottom out on the endplate.

I seem to recognise that guitar.

Thanks a million for all the info everyone, I'll keep you posted on how I get on!!