Tuning the split

[Peter]

Thanks Roger - you rule! I'll PM you...

[Peter]

Many many thanks to Roger who has sent me the compensator rod and its bits and pieces. Very much appreciated.

Thanks!

Peter

[rogerp1]

Very welcome Peter, hope it works

[Patrick Laffrat]

see the diagrams:
http://www.pedalsteelguitar.fr/materiel ... split.html

[Will C]

Patrick, being a Frenchman, has the text in French. Here's a working translation for us non-francophones:

The split (English word signifying division or sharing) is an action at the changer which allows (the player) to get a correct intermediate note when operating a pedal (which raises the pitch of the string) and a (knee) lever which lowers it, at the same time. The intermediate pitch alteration thus obtained is shared between the action of the pedal and the action of the lever.

Let's take the example of the 5th string which (open) gives a B.
When acted upon by the A pedal it raises this string to a C#.
The effect of the X lever lowers it to Bb. (The X lever is also known as the "J" lever and the "V" lever, the latter in memory of Jeff Newman, because it is usually a vertical lever operated by the left knee) (I use "LKV" for "left knee vertical)
If you operate the A pedal and the X lever you get an intermediate note between D# and Bb (*actually that's impossible, it would be between C# and Bb - this looks like a typo*). We will opt for a C using the A pedal and the X lever, which would allow us to get a minor chord by using e,g, A,B and X.

On a PSG fitted with an "all pull" changer there are two ways to tune a split.

1. The changer has an Allen screw (hex socket head) fixed to the cross-beam at the rear of the top of the changer (as seen on the Zumsteel, Emmons, Derby, and modern guitars like the Williams)

The rearward movement of the changer arm (which carries the string) is limited by the protrusion of this adjustable screw.
a. Tune the open string at the tuner.
b. Tune the raise (pedal depressed) using the nylon tuning nut behind the raise finger.
c. Tune the split lower (pedal and lever operated) using the nylon tuning nut behind the lower finger.
d. Tune the lower (release pedal, knee lever only) using the Allen screw at the back of the changer.

[Will C]

2. Split tuning with an extra pull-rod. (Carter, MSA, Mullen...)

The rearward movement of the changer arm is limited by the raise finger, which no longer rests on the lower stop in the end-plate, but against the nylon tuning nut of an extra pull-rod. This abutment, being adjustable, allows one to vary the lowering action of the knee lever.

Fit a pull-rod linking from the first hole on the bell-crank (the one closest to the cross-shaft and operated by the lever acting on the 5th string) and a free hole on the raise finger for the 5th string. Mark the nylon tuning nut of this pull-rod with a recognisable colour (e.g. red, see photo)

a. Tune the 5th string open as before, using the tuner.
b. Tune the raise (pedal down) using the nylon tuning nut on the raise finger (top of photo).
c. Tune the split lower (pedal and knee lever operated) with the nylon tuning nut on the lower finger; turn clockwise to lower the note, and anti-clockwise to raise it.
d. Tune the lower on its own using the nylon tuning nut coloured red on the raise finger.

Voila - seemples!

[rogerp1]

On my GFI, I had to put the compensator rod in hole 2 on the bellcrank for my G lower lever and hole 3 on my bellcrank for the Vertical lever.......I did try hole 1 but it didnt have enough leverage

[Will C]

Yes, each guitar varies - you have to "suck it and see" I'm afraid! Nothing like it to get up close and personal with how your steel works though.

[Thijs Kappen]

On my GFI 12 string Universal 8/6 Keyless Ultra is another rod for the split, already done by the factory. It works fine.
So it is surely possible to fix that yourself.
Send a mail to the factory with your questions and wishes and, untill now, the service was great.