Additional knee levers for C6 neck

[simon_f3]

Hi All,
I have a 1975 Sho-Bud Pro 3 D10, which has a C6th copedent as per Jimmy Day's on the b0b page, screenshot here:

I want to add a couple of knee levers for the left knee, to make it more like the Buddy Emmons copedent - I would probably also move the string 1 raise from pedal 5 to pedal 8, as I have string 1 tuned to D, not G.

Question - does anybody have any good photos of a Sho-Bud D10 undercarriage that might help me get the levers and linkages in a sensible position please? I have all the parts I need (I think...) but am just looking for a bit of guidance before i take the guitar to pieces!

Oh, and another question - would anyone have an opinion on whether it's worth adding the RKR to raise string 3? It looks like this one would require some quite imaginative linkages, but could certainly be done if required.

Thanks for any advice anyone can give - I think the time is nigh to give the guitar a birthday and add some bells and whistles (as if it didn't weight enough already...!).

Cheers, Sid

[Tony Russell Davis]

Hi Sid, if you don't have the raise C to C# on right knee right, I recommend adding that pull anyway (a major chord with pedal 8). It's only one bell-crank on the existing crossrod (tip - try a Mullen one, they can slip onto the same hex rod from the side without taking the rod out). The additional "central" KLs can be tricky to fit in, here's some shots of my undercarriage (during renovation) that may make it clearer. The guitar is a ShoBud/Fender but the parts are the same.
My central left raises A to Bb and the CK right is a "reverse pedal 6" - in other words high E - Eb and lower E - F; not used much and I don't have it on my other guitar. Bear in mind I went back to having a G on top and found that was the key to understanding C6th, for me. My Sierra is a D-11 so I can have the G and the D on that, the most used, guitar, I only have the CKL on that, so I don't know what CKR pulls would work best with only the D on top.

Sorry the last has camera shake, but it gives a clear picture of the positions of the additional short crossrods. Note that the spacing is wider than the outer KLs because you have to cover 5 pedals with that knee.
Cheers, Tony.

[Tony Russell Davis]

Maybe some help? Here's a pic of a Mullen type crank I haven't finished, but if you visualise the grub screw bearing down through that little "shelf" onto the hex shaft you'll get the idea

[simon_f3]

Thanks Tony, that's brilliant! I've got a big bag of Sho-Bud bits and pieces including the cranks, though the Mullen type does look somewhat more elegant! The photos are a big help as I can plan how it will all fit - changing which strings the levers actuate is probably not that big a deal later down the line... (famous last words, perhaps!)
Thanks again, Sid

[Tony Russell Davis]

Maybe relevant - I needed a triple lower on my guitar (C6th) with only two lowering holes. If you need to do the same let me know and I'll show you how