Sierra pul-rods

[Tony Russell Davis]

Does anyone know the diameter (it looks dead like 1/8in, so really just checking on that one) and the (important) thread cut on pull-rods in Sierra (Herbie Wallace) Crown series? In order to re-position some pulls, I need to shorten and re-cut the threads on a couple of rods
I have never owned (or worked on) a Sierra until now, so it came as a surprise to find the tuning nut (brass) braised onto one end of the rod and the thread on the end where it goes through a (tapped) nylon barrel in the bell-crank. Apart from ZBs, I'm used to the screw thread being in the nylon nuts at the changer, on an all pull.
Any knowledge out there please? Tony

[bob adams]

Great system, no slack, no noise but a bollocks when you need to move pulls as you often can't get into the crank tightening screw without taking off several rods.

I'm sure they are 1/8th from memory Tony if so a 4BA die would do the job for you!

Stuck the pics on for those who are unfamiliar with the guitar.

Attachments

[Tony Russell Davis]

Thanks Bob - you the man! Yes, the whole guitar is an engineering dream job. Maybe not built with the cavalier flair of (say) ZB, but made with sound mechanical thought. We'll see how it performs when I've fitted the required additions. Tony.

[Tony Russell Davis]

The next quandry is how to make up additional pull-rods! (I got some -thanks Dave but need a couple more).
On these, the tuning wrench fits onto a 3/16 hex brass "head", about 1/2in long, fixed solidly onto the 1/8in rod. It looks like USA is the only place to get 3/16 brass hex rod unless somebody knows different? And - any ideas how to fix them onto the steel pull-rod?

[bob adams]

Yip, Somebody knows different I have approx 20ft of it here how much do you need?

pm me your address Tony! and I'll wing it down.

[Tony Russell Davis]

Thank a million Bob - they arrived this morning and so I can have a great time over the weekend "playing" with my lathe etc.
All best, Tony .

[Will C]

Come on Tony, how did it go? How does the Sierra sound?

[Tony Russell Davis]

OK - (C6th) When I got it, the first string was a high G and the second was the D. I've swapped them over so the lower tone is "outside" the tuning and added a half tone raise to the G like they did before D on top was popular. The only knee lever lowered the A, so I've added a raise on another KL. I have two more knee-levers, cross-shafts and bell-cranks made, to add to the C6th, but they'll have to wait until I get some 1/8in rod.
It's not a hard job, but most changes entail loosening off other rods to get the tools onto the bolt-heads of the bell-cranks. And, of course, the original parts are all imperial sizes but some metric stuff has been added over the years, so I needed a lot of allen keys.
Everything is so logical - over-engineered if anything - and it plays really well. Tuning stability is first class, keyless head is easy to use, the pedals and K/Ls are so precise in operation that it's very responsive.
As to the sound - because it took so long to get the bits and bobs and set it up to my preference (only got it right way up last weekend) I've only tried it through a twin and haven't had time to fiddle with the tone settings (that amp is permanently set up with the Fender guitar plugged in).
I have a couple of Peaveys that I mean to try out too, but I keep the big stuff elsewhere. So far I think it has quite a range of tone, but you must remember that this guitar was made for Danny Sheilds who wound pickups for MSA (he was the "S") and I guess he must have made these - on the only D-11 they ever made. The string separation is very good in chords and arpeggios. There are switches all over; for neck selection, coil taps and a tone control defeat. I don't think it sounds like a typical Sierra, but I haven't heard many. Maybe we'll see when the NESGF happens next month, it'll be there!

[Ken Byng]

Tony, re the 1/8" rod, I use the easily acquired stainless welding rod mainly. I have also used ally rod, which reduces the weight considerably, but in theory would be more prone to expansion and contraction problems. I haven't noticed any more tuning problems with ally over stainless to be honest. It is easier to cut threads on ally too.

[Tony Russell Davis]

Thanks Ken - looking into that. Tone.