Yes is the answer. but the nut will only affect open strings; It's a good question and I hope the following helps - bear in mind I used only what was handy and all dimensions were governed by the materials.
The bridge material will affect all notes. That said, all of the materials you list have been used, with different effects, on guitars. I've used steel angle (bright sound), brass (still bright and easier to cut and file) most wood is pretty dead and not recommended, (it needs to be in the lignum vitae/ebony bracket to be any use), bone is very good for nuts (as on the sunburst guitar) and bridge saddles and aluminium works very well and is easy to work on.
Recommendation - aluminium angle is readily available and will do both jobs. Years ago I got loads of offcuts, angle and channel, being chucked out from a double glazing manufacturer and have only come to the last few bits now.
It can be bought fairly cheap off eBay and the same stuff used at both ends of the guitar. You may need to hacksaw and file one side of the angle to get the right the height.
Here's some pictures of two 7 stringers that I made out of wood offcuts from a furniture maker (mahogany 1-1/4" x 2-1/4" for the neck) set into a routed out channel, about an inch deep, in a band-sawn piece of thick pine window-sill (route first, shape after!).
You can see how the ali. angle for the nut has been filed to fit into a routed socket to go hidden under the fretboard.
Here's the white one "finished",
The ali. has been notched for the ball-ends of the strings and the body cut away for clearance. The cover is one discarded from a Fender bass.
and here it is now.
The fretboard (and hence the scale length) was transcribed from the first fret to bridge of a standard guitar by cutting through the top layer of a black/white/black plastic sheet I had bought for scratch-plates. The paint is standard spray can stuff, and the fret markers are stick on's from China (about £2.55 a set)