C6 Pedal 4

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Re: C6 Pedal 4

Postby Tony Russell Davis » Thu Nov 26, 2020 2:19 pm

The "standard" KL on C6th is C to B (3rd string). The next one, in my opinion, should be that same string, C to C#. This combined with the 8 pedal gives an inversion of a C chord (but as C7th) 3 frets up. It's also useful with other pedals. The next one to consider after those is both C's (or at least the 4th string) to Bb. I have that on a central lever going left - CKL. If you want a fourth lever (another central going right), consider a "reverse pedal 5" (2nd string E to Eb, 6th string E to F). I get a little bit use out of that, mostly for runs and licks.
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Re: C6 Pedal 4

Postby ZakTF » Thu Nov 26, 2020 3:05 pm

John, the guitar is a Mullen RP D10. I imagine it's quite complicated to add new pulls to a guitar?

Thanks, Tony. There is a limit of how many pulls per lever isn't there? Because my RKL raises the high F# to G#, while also dropping the low G# to F#, on the E9 neck. I wonder if this is why it isn't used on the C6 neck.
And I would love to have a guitar with those changes haha. I really like Herby Wallace's playing, but I run into problems trying to learn any of it, because I'm sure he makes use of the levers I dont have.
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Re: C6 Pedal 4

Postby Tony Russell Davis » Thu Nov 26, 2020 4:15 pm

There should be no problem adding a third pull to your RKL. I had it on my Mullen D-10 and have four pulls on a couple of levers on my Sierra and Fender/Bud. Also it's very easy to work on Mullens, and it's especially easy to add a pull to an existing cross rod. The Mullen bell cranks slot on from the side of the rod and hold fast with a grub screw that bears onto the 60degree side of the hex rod through that little ledge on the left in the picture. Then it's just a matter of threading a pull rod and bending the rt.angle hook at the crank end. I managed to fine-drill the rods to take the tiny split-pin that Mullens use, but you can secure it in several home made ways.
When I sold my Mullen the buyer wanted the RKR/RKL swapped over and it took well under 15minutes to do it.
Mullen type crank.jpg

Here's one I made earlier, but didn't (need to) finish. So you can see how easy it is to hacksaw and file to shape? Or get one made by somebody like Bob Adams if you're not familiar with metalworking (particularly tapping threads - a wonderfully satisfying task :D :roll: )
Fender SM T-8: Shakey 10-plank: Ricky 6: Harmony H7 R Smeck,: plus "home-mades"
Fender D-10: Sierra D-11:
Resos- Goldtone 8 string & Regal 7
FenderTwin: Peavey Delta Blues: Marshall AS50R: DigiTech>GK MB200->Telonics 15"
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Re: C6 Pedal 4

Postby JohnDavisStringsHere » Thu Nov 26, 2020 5:44 pm

Cousin Tony is correct Zak most modern guitars handle the extra pulls quite easily not so the old ZB's I tried three pulls and a push on my old one and the guitar wanted to Exit stage left.... I used to wonder why Gordon had so many staggered on his ZB thats when I found out and those guitars are really heavy....
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Re: C6 Pedal 4

Postby ZakTF » Fri Nov 27, 2020 2:10 pm

Thanks guys. So if I understand correctly, adding another lever to an existing rod would mean that using the "new" lever would also activate the pulls already on that rod?

Also, I'd need to improve a lot on C6 first anyway, but I am wondering if it might suit my needs to one day change the pulls from pedal 4, to the pulls of one of the levers I don't have. As a couple of the players I really like seem to have ditched the standard pedal 4 pulls completely.
Mullen D10 8+6, Fessenden U12 7+5. Contact www.sessionsteel.co.uk for Zoom lessons or session recording.
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Re: C6 Pedal 4

Postby Tony Russell Davis » Sat Nov 28, 2020 12:50 pm

I don't follow you new question - aren't you wanting to add one pull (bell crank) to the existing right knee lever to get the 3rd string raise C to C#? Not adding a lever to an existing cross rod?
The additional C-C# pull requires only one crank and a pull rod. If you want extra separate pulls you will need to go down the route of adding cross rods, levers, bell cranks and pull rods, which is a major undertaking - but quite possible as you can get split cross rods that feed in under the gubbins without taking the guitar to bits :lol: (A split cross rod has a scarf joint in the middle that secures with a set screw).
Split cross rod.jpg

Don't forget that the players "you like" spent many years using the "standard" pulls, including pedal 4, before deciding what alternatives work for them. Also remember C6th is a tuning that can be played without using any pedals (look at Mick Hearn's videos). I strongly recommend playing around with it that way first until you can feel the intervals, then introducing a pedal to see what that does to what you've learned, then another - etc. until you're familiar enough to know, or "feel" what to expect when you engage a pedal or lever.
Anyway, however you go for it, thank goodness for new C6th players :lol:
Fender SM T-8: Shakey 10-plank: Ricky 6: Harmony H7 R Smeck,: plus "home-mades"
Fender D-10: Sierra D-11:
Resos- Goldtone 8 string & Regal 7
FenderTwin: Peavey Delta Blues: Marshall AS50R: DigiTech>GK MB200->Telonics 15"
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Re: C6 Pedal 4

Postby ZakTF » Mon Nov 30, 2020 2:10 pm

Hi Tony, I see what you mean now haha. I guess the Cto C# raise could go on the RKL lever, as the RKR is already dropping my 3rd string by a tone, and that split cross rod is very interesting. I didn't know they existed.

Also, you're quite right! I would wait at least another year or 2 before trying to change things up too drastically.. And I'm listening to MIck Hearn playing nightlife, right now. He's a great player!
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