Goodrich Volume Pedal Jump

[SoBSteel]

I've got a Goodrich standard height volume pedal and it works OK BUT, there is a volume jump at the end of the pedal travel that is difficult to control and when using effects sounds awful, setting gain levels is also an issue. (That might be my playing!) I've had a look inside the pedal and there is a little black box rather than a silver potentiometer (think that's the right word). Is there a replacement pot that doesn't do this or an adjustment that I can make.
Your advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Shaun

[Jif]

Hi Shaun, could you possibly post up a picture of the innards, especially the little black box, this would help to see what it is exactly. The Dunlop pots are black and sealed but they are still round and obviously a pot. The original pots were not Dunlop but it may have replaced with a Dunlop pot.

[SoBSteel]

Insides

Label

Photos attached of the pedal

[Jif]

Hi Shaun, looking at the pictures, that's definitely a pot, just a different shape. It looks like it might be an Alps, (manufacturer), pot. Not sure if that will be the original pot or if someone has put in a replacement. I'm afraid I haven't seen enough different versions of that pedal to make a judgement. I do have a Goodrich pedal, the original pot in it was the silver round type but they may have used different types in different generations of their pedals. Perhaps someone here who has more experience of them could verify that.

As to your actual problem, has the pedal always done this or has this just started happening recently?

The only things I can think of without seeing it in the flesh is as the pot will most likely be logarithmic, it won't respond the same over the full travel of the pot, i.e. the resistance varies over the travel in a logarithmic fashion, so the travel works best over a certain area of the resistance taper. Sorry if I'm not explaining this very well, I don't know how much you know about electronics, so I'm trying to keep it in layman's terms.

The string may have slipped or moved so that the pot is not working over the correct area of the resistance taper.

If it's always been like this, it's possible if it is 2nd hand that a previous owner has replaced the pot and either not set it up properly or used a pot that is not suitable for purpose.

Might be best trying to find someone local who has experience of electronic repair, ideally who also knows how these pedals work. The string method kind of complicates things as it is a skill in itself to get the string put in correctly.

Here's a link and a YouTube vid that may help.

https://www.gregcutshaw.com/Goodrich%20120%20Pot/Goodrich%20120%20Pot.html

[simon_f3]

If it's any help, here's my two pennies worth (noting here that I agree with everything in Jif's reply above!) - some potentiometers have a 'zero resistance' contact at the end of travel, designed to remove the potentiometer windings from the signal path at full volume. I believe these were fitted to some Fender guitars over the years - a great idea, assuming you're not dynamically controlling the volume as you do with a PSG!
Volume pedals are electrically very simple, so you can't go far wrong in the wiring. As a quick check, you could remove the string and play a signal through the pedal whilst turning the pot by hand to see if you still get the jump in volume. If it's still there then simply replacing the pot should fix it.. If the jump is no longer there then it's an issue with the string.
I replaced the pot in my Goodrich pedal a few years ago (with a Dunlop one, about £30) and aside from the fun of re-stringing it it was a pretty easy task.
Good luck, and please do post a reply to let us know how you get on

[SoBSteel]

Thanks so much for the advice and insight...I think I know what the issue is. This only happens when I am using an effects pedal as my amp (going direct into the PA) AND more importantly using a pitch shift as one of the bands I play in is drop tuned. Without using the pitch shift the VP is smooth as silk and if my swell is gentle it isn't noticeable...too much. The effects is a Line 6 Helix Stomp XL.

So I have a few options, detune a steel specifically for that band...then it doesn't feel right (loose and 'flubby') or learn the steel parts in new keys to fit with the detune...that'll be confusing and interesting when playing the tunes in other bands or perseverance with the set up as it is.

Anyone else playing in a detuned band? What is your solution to it?

[Jif]

Hi Shaun, weird problem. I also use a Stomp XL, have never experienced a problem like that. However, I don't use a pitch shift and my main VP is a Lehle mono volume 90, my Goodrich is my back up VP. I have the Stomp going straight into a power amp, no preamp, and probably use the Stomp in a similar fashion to yourself, amp modelling with a few effects, all tone adjustments done in the Stomp. Works well for me.

Re the detune issue, I presume the band is detuning down a tone to D? Difficult to adjust to that I would imagine. Personally I would keep to concert and change the way I play it, though that also presents problems. As you said, the strings would feel slack if detuned, I would imagine it would also affect the tone. Bit of a Hobsons Choice, hope you find something that works for you

[Malcolm]

Shaun, looks like a Tom Bradshaw 470 pot may have been fitted.Check out Tom Bradshaw steel guitar, they are listed on his site, Tom was the guy who brought the Dunlop Hot Potz 470k to the notice of steel players, fitted one to my old Goodrich many years back now after having run through all the replacements available eg Allen Bradley, PEC, Claristat, all were total crap, some only lasted a month best I got was six months., Tom’s pot is still going strong.

[Malcolm]

Tom Bradshaw type J 470k pot.