Tuning

[Grotboy]

Is it really necessary to depress the pedal when tuning? What will happen if I don't?
Why?
From this you will probably figure out that I am a novice steel player. I figure that if I ask enough questions the penny will finally drop
Thanks a lot
Grotboy

[henry]

Do you mean tune with the a and b pedals down?
This is so your tuning takes into account any drop in pitch you might get from the action of pressing the pedals causing your neck to bend a little aka cabinet drop.

Far as I know you should aim to strike a compromise between a tuning that works with pedals up and down..

[Graeme Jaye]

As a complete novice myself, all I can add to the conversation is that I was instructed to tune my WBS with the keys on strings that were lowered (either pedals or knees) and with the nuts when in the relaxed position. Raised strings are tuned in the opposite manner - keys when relaxd, nuts when raised.

[Zebedee]

See my tuning method here:

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... &highlight

Note: It applies only to pedal steels with all-pull changers

[Paul Brennan]

If you're a novice player then it's a good sign you're asking questions about tuning. Unfortunately, given the nature of this instrument tuning is a major issue for us. Playing in tune requires constant education and vigilance. You must educate your ear so you know what sounds in tune and what does not. You have to really listen, analyse and think about what you're hearing. I'm not going to add to the confusion by posting my methods/opinions here (they're constantly evolving in any case). I will suggest you go to the US forum and read as much as you can on the subject. Pay particular attention to what Mr Franklin has to say. Richard's method linked above is very good advice but it's just a starting point. As you're playing you must constantly listen and evaluate your degree of intonation. After a while this becomes an ingrained habit. By the way, it's the same for fiddle players.

As for cabinet drop. Play an open string (say the 4th). Press A & B pedals. Can you actually hear a drop in pitch? If no, then you don't need to worry about cabinet drop. The older players often say "there was no such thing as cabinet drop before electronic tuners were invented". If yes, then you probably need a new steel.

[Grotboy]

Furthermore.....
I want to clarify my original quetsion about tuning.
As I have said, I recently bought a shobud pro II custom from a deceased estate so thwe previous owner hasn't been much help

What happens ( ie what problems will I cause ) if I turn the tuners ( not the machine heads to the left) without depressing the corresponding pedal?

Secondly, has anyone ever thought of making a compensating bridge so that tuning with + & - cents is not needed. All this tuning stuff is driving me nuts. But I will persist' cause i really love the sound of pedal steel. Ever since I heard Pete Drake on Nashville Skyline.
Thanks for your help so far and into the future - Grotboy

[Ruby Darnell]

Yes, tuning properly is one of my next things to tackle. I can tune the strings OK when open but it's the bit after that is a sticking point - once I've done the first bit, I just want to get on and have a go as practice time goes too quickly anyway. I have a book that says to do it in stages - open, then again with pedals down, then open 'at the endplate', then tune lowers at the endplate...As I said, I don't get past the first stage! The book is 'Pedal Steel Guitar' by Winnie Winston & Bill Keith. Zebedee, I'll have a look at your link and see if it sheds any more light on this. How do I know if it is an 'all pull' changer? And 'cabinet drop'? I hadnt heard of this but I hardly dare try - I dont like the sound of the last sentence.

[Zebedee]

Ruby,
What make of steel do you have?
If it's an old one, especially if it's an old student model, it will probably have a pull-release changer.

We can advise you on the correct way to tune your steel when we know what type of steel it is

[adam]

Hiya,

I came to the forum to post a tuning question so thought i would put it in this thread.

I have a ZB Student (Used to belong to Zebedee on here!) It has two foot pedals and four knee levers.
Hope this makes sense...

E9 Tuning

F# - Right leg/Left +G
E♭ - Right leg/Right -D
G# - 1st Foot Pedal +A
E - Left leg/Left - E♭ / Left leg/Right +F
B - 2nd Foot Pedal ++C#
G# - 1st Foot Pedal +A
F# - Right leg/Left +G
E - Left leg/Left - E♭ / Left leg/Right +F
D
B - 2nd Foot Pedal ++C#

I got the Winnie Winston book to try and get me started but that book is written for a slightly different E9 tuning where the 4th string (E) can be moved up to F#.

I wondered if anyone had any advice or knew of any beginner guides for someone with my tuning.

Thanks,
Adam

[Zebedee]

It looks like it still has my original 1990 set-up on it (Jimmy Day pedals, minus the C pedal)
In those days, I didn't use a C pedal, and because room was restricted on the underside of the ZB, I needed the space to put in all my modifications, like helper springs.

You could re-instate the C pedal, but working on a ZB is not for the faint-hearted, and the helper springs would need to be either removed or re-positioned.